SoftMatters

is a PSL pre-maturation project led by Soft Matters,  in collaboration with Mines Paris Tech and Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles (ENSAIT)

The COCREAT project (conception of responsible creation tools as textile items) is led by design-led researchers with a background in textile and fashion from the Soft Matters research group of EnsadLab, exploring in this context how to develop more flexible tools allowing to modulate phases of creation and fabrication to support a more resilient perspective to garment production.  The focus lies here in the conception of design/fabrication tools supported by mecatronics, automation and electronics for the design of textiles items for ready-to-wear and luxury clothing and accessories. 

In order to bring it to commercialization, this project aims at developing an anthropo-mecatronic device in-between knitting and weaving allowing to  turn a single yarn into textile items.

 COCREAT questions the notion of “bespoke tailoring” through the design of new garments and textile items, according to anthropo-dimensional measurements (varying according to people and objects) electronically or manually controlling the tuning and functioning of machines. The equipment is capable of a multi-modal dialogue (from the 100% manual to the 100% automatic) within the garment creation and conception phase with the fashion designer and then electronically controlling the manufacturing of textile pieces without producing scraps.  This co-robot can be assimilated to rapid-prototyping processes. It relies on a patented technology developed by J. Vicerial during her SACRe (Sciences Arts Creation Research) PhD at PSL.

Coordination: Aurélie Mosse, Jean-François Bassereau (Ensadlab)

Main researchers: Jeanne Vicerial (Clinique Vestimentaire), Philippe Faul (Lycée Voillaume), Yvon Gaignebet (Mines Paris Tech) 

Funding: Recipient of the prematuration call PSL Valo/ QLife 2020 

Related publications:

• Vicerial, J., 2019, Clinique Vestimentaire: pour un nouveau paradigme de la création et réalisation vestimentaire sur-mesure, thèse doctorale SACRe, préparée à l’Ecole des Arts Déco, Université PSL